by Lynn Greene
Crusty concerns
Homemade beats store-bought
Over
the Thanksgiving holiday, I provided a recipe for pumpkin
pie, but as Mac, a reader, pointed out, I did not give
directions for the pie crust. He wrote:
Hello Lynn: I don’t usually read your column (nothing
against you, just not a recipe follower or even collector
of recipes) but this week’s headline caught my eye. Oh,
how I remember the good ole days of pumpkin pie baking
in the oven during the holidays. Nothing can evoke holiday
spirit for me quicker than this ... and I hate pumpkin
pie!!
The reason I'm writing is it seems such a shame to give
out a pumpkin pie recipe and suggest using a purchased
pie crust. I quit eating pie in the ’60s because I was
no longer at home where Grandma made a to-die for flaky
crust. I could kick myself for not learning her secret.
It went to the grave with her.
How ‘bout a column someday on the secrets to making a
good pie crust? I think what’s brought home from the store
tastes and feels like an extra thick hunk of cardboard.
Just my opinion!
Mac
Well, I am not about to make the same mistake twice!
The first thing to know is your grandmother probably used
lard, which does make a great, flaky pie crust; it’s the
best, if you’re only looking at taste, but most people
don’t want the saturated fats that go along with that lard.
Pie crust requires only three ingredients: flour, fat
(I prefer butter) and a liquid. The secrets to a good crust
are:
- No power tools necessary; to get a flaky crust, you
should not overbeat the dough. Handle it as little as
possible.
- Use chilled fat — no matter what kind you use: lard,
butter or shortening. The fat is cut into the flour to
form crumbs, pea-size or smaller. If the fat melts into
the flour before the crust is baked, the flakiness is
gone.
- Use ice cold liquid, milk or water. Pour it into the
butter/flour crumb mixture stirring by hand. Add your
liquid slowly and stop sooner than you think. The dough
will form a malleable ball. The liquid heats up during
the baking process and forms steam which separates the
crust into flaky layers.
- Give it a rest. Wrap the dough tightly and put it in
the refrigerator to rest for a few minutes before rolling
it out.
- Keep it cold. A metal or marble surface can be cooled
down before rolling out the pie crust with a bag of ice
set on it for a few minutes. There are also rolling pins
made out of marble that can be refrigerated before using
them, and another type of rolling pin is made to hold
ice water.
- Forget about making it look perfect. The dough is pretty
forgiving; if you develop a tear, overlap the edges and
pat it together to repair the rip.
- Extra ingredients
are nice, but not necessary. If the butter is already
salted (read the label) there is no need for additional
salt. Some people like to add an egg — be aware that
this reduces the amount of liquid you will need. Unbleached
all-purpose flour works just fine and this is probably
what you have at home.
Pie crust
— Makes enough dough for a 9-inch double crust pie or
two 9-inch single crust pies..
2-1/2 cups flour with extra flour for rolling the crust
out
1 cup chilled lard, butter or shortening
6-8 Tablespoons chilled water, more as necessary
Cut the flour and fat together to form a crumbly mixture.
Pour the chilled water in a little at a time as you stir
the dough. When it starts to form a ball, stop and turn
the dough out onto a floured counter. Knead together with
your hands just until it holds together well. Divide dough
into 2 even portions; wrap and refrigerate. Chill for 10
minutes.
On a floured surface, roll out the first ball of dough,
forming about a 12-inch circle. Fold the dough in half,
pick it up and place in the pie pan, unfolding it so the
edges hang over the sides. Cut away excess dough but leave
just a bit hanging over the edge.
Pour in your prepared filling, then roll out the second
ball of dough and place it on top of the filling. Gather
up the bottom and top edges of the pie crust and crimp
together with your fingers or a fork to make a decorative
edge.
Apple pie filling
Using at least two varieties of baking apples, slice the
apples into the bottom crust until well-mounded. Dot with
2 Tablespoons of butter. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup brown sugar,
1 Tablespoon cinnamon and 2 Tablespoons rum. Cover with
the second pie crust and seal edges. Make 5 or 6 slits
in the top for the steam to escape. Bake in a 375 F oven
until the crust is nicely browned and the apples are tender
(test with a knife into the center.)
Editor’s note: Lynn Greene is senior editor for Community Shoppers Inc., which publishes the Janesville Messenger. Contact her at lgreene@communityshoppers.com |
