by Lynn Greene
It’s time for a few questions and answers
Every
few days or so, I get an e-mail or a phone call from someone
who needs a little help with cooking. Often, all that’s
required is a bit of information. In other cases, I’ll
confirm that they’re on the right track.
I enjoy these calls and letters because it helps keep
me in touch with what real cooks in the kitchen are doing.
The biggest complaint I’ve heard lately is about the price
of food.
Among the things affecting the price of food is the price
of fuel. The higher the cost of gas, the more transportation
costs go up, and that adds to the price of food. A 2002
study by Worldwatch Institute found that food travels,
on average, more than 1,500 miles before we put it on our
tables. Recent price increases reflect this.
It’s never good to waste our natural resources, and that
includes food, so as prices climb, more and more people
are concerned that they are cooking and storing their food
properly. Here is a recap of some of the more interesting
questions I’ve been asked lately.
Cooking with fats
Question: I use virgin olive oil for cooking because I
have been told that it is very stable and does not transform
into saturated fat when subjected to high temperatures.
Is this true?
Answer: Yes, this is true. All olive oil, not just extra
virgin, is more stable than many other oils. When polyunsaturated
oils are heated to high temperatures, changes (such as
oxidation) can occur, making the fat more harmful.
Butter, however, adds a unique flavor and texture to foods
that you may not want to give up. Try replacing half of
the butter with olive oil and you will effectively raise
the burning temperature as well. This works well for sauteing
vegetables.
Saturated fats are most responsible for high cholesterol,
and are found mostly in foods that come from animals, such
as beef or poultry fat, butter, cream, and cheeses made
from whole and 2 percent milk. Some plant fats also are
high in saturated fat. These include coconut, palm and
cocoa butter.
Polyunsaturated fats are better and are found in fish,
nuts, seeds and such oils as soybean, corn, safflower,
canola, olive and sunflower.
Cooking with wine
Question: I’ve found a lot of recipes that call for wine.
I don’t want to use alcohol; is there a substitution?
Answer: Yes, there are substitutions you can use, depending
on what the alcohol is intended to do in the recipe. For
example, in meat dishes, the wine is usually adding flavor
and an acid — the acid helps break down the meat tissues
and could be replaced with vinegar or lemon juice.
When cooking with alcohol, you need to cook the sauce
for at least 20 to 30 seconds to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Because alcohol evaporates at 172 F, any sauce or stew
that is simmering or boiling is hot enough to burn the
alcohol off.
I’ve noticed that some cooks have decided they don’t want
to cook with wine because it tastes funny. The first rule
of thumb here is never use any wine you wouldn’t want to
drink, and do not use “cooking wine or cooking sherry,”
since these are typically salty and have other additives.
What type of cream?
Question: What do they mean when they call for heavy cream?
Answer: Typically, heavy cream refers to whipping cream,
although there is a difference in that heavy cream will
have a higher butterfat content, which allows it to be
whipped up nicely. Whipping cream is just fine for toppings
on pie and dessert. If the cream has to be whipped, you
definitely need to use one or the other. Heavy cream is
often used in sauces, such as alfredo.
You can reduce the calories by using half-and-half instead.
This also is referred to as “light” cream.
Whipping cream comes in pint-size containers in a liquid
form and says “whipping cream.”
More often now, I see creme fraiche (pronounced krem fresh) being
called for in recipes. This is a matured, thickened cream
that has a slightly tangy, nutty flavor and velvety rich
texture. The thickness can range from that of commercial
sour cream to almost as solid as room temperature margarine.
In France, the cream is unpasteurized and therefore contains
the bacteria necessary to thicken it naturally. In our
country, where all commercial cream is pasteurized, the
fermenting agents necessary can be obtained by adding buttermilk
or sour cream.
It is used as a dessert topping and for thickening cooked
sauces and soups; it has the added advantage of not curdling
when boiled.
Creme fraiche
— This recipe makes a mock creme fraiche and can be used
as a dessert topping. Since it doesn’t curdle when boiled,
it’s a good thickener for soups and sauces.
1 cup whipping cream, room temperature
1 Tbsp. buttermilk or 1/2 cup sour cream, room temperature
In a jar with a lid, place whipping cream and buttermilk
or sour cream; cover securely and shake 15 seconds. Set
aside at room temperature for 24 hours or until very thick.
Stir once or twice during that time. Cream will thicken
faster if the room is on the warm side. (You can set it
on top of your gas stove to catch the warmth of the pilot
light.)
Stir thickened creme fraiche well. Refrigerate at least
six hours before serving. Cover tightly and store in refrigerator
for up to two weeks.
Whipped creme fraiche: Beat until soft peaks form — it
won’t become stiff like egg whites.
Sweetened creme fraiche: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons powdered
sugar before shaking the cream.
—Lynn Greene is senior editor for CSI Media, which publishes Walworth County Sunday. Contact her at lgreene@communityshoppers.com. |
