by Lis Friemoth
Extending the garden
Containers can provide a solution
Rather oddly, some gardeners are reticent to plant container gardens. Containers are so manageable, mobile and versatile that they should be a standard form of planting in every landscape, not just an afterthought.
They can add a punch of color to an uninteresting or drab area, or serve as testing ground for new plants.
Although almost anything can become a container garden, matching the container to the site will yield the best results. Don’t put plants that love cool roots into a metal container in the full sun; the result will not be pleasant.
The container should have good drainage holes and adequate interior space for the root growth needed. Without drainage, all plants, except those suited only for water sites, will rot. Containers with narrower top edges limit the ability of the plants to spread in crown mass. Using only one or two plants for dramatic impact may work very well in those narrow-topped containers.
The finish on containers impacts the amount of moisture needed to keep the plants and soil adequately hydrated. Unfinished clay containers, old boots, and moss-lined wire baskets all have porous surfaces which will wick moisture out of the soil faster than a container with a glazed, nonporous finish.
Plastic containers will hold moisture pretty well but deteriorate over time and exposure to the elements. With anything made out of plastic, whether molded or resin, expect about four or five years of use, not a lifetime. These materials are not the choice for permanent design features.
A huge benefit of plastics that may outweigh the shorter life span is the light weight. They are so easy to move, and they make for very mobile displays.
Size and height of containers will depend on home architecture, landscape design, and expected end result. When using plants for purely decorative purposes, the general rule is plant material should be roughly double the container height at maturity. As with any rule, exceptions will apply.
Placing containers in appropriate lighting will ensure a good start. So, what do the terms full sun, part sun, and shade actually mean? Full sun should be a site that provides bright, direct light for six to eight hours per day. Part sun means four to six hours, but the plant may prefer afternoon (warmer) or morning (cooler) light. Full shade means no direct sun, but the depth of that shade will be determined by the plant preference.
A good garden center will be able to help you figure out which plants will fit the site but only if you understand the site first. Gather a chair, beverage, phone and magazine and get ready for tough landscape duty. Watch the light movement throughout the day, making note of the times and intensity of any direct light. Be sure to consider all reflective light from buildings, stonework, and mulches. These features can appreciably raise the temperatures of the areas surrounding them.
One of the components of container gardening that can easily be forgotten is the fact that they are truly artificial growing environments. There are no naturally occurring, beneficial bacteria to help maintain a healthy environmental balance. So you need to take precautions to ensure that the plants get the best start and care.
First thing to do is to be sure that the container is clean. If it was used in previous years, disinfect by soaking in a 10 percent bleach solution for at least 30 minutes. For large containers, wash well with warm soapy water, and follow with a completely thorough wetting with the bleach solution. Plastic containers are notorious for carrying pathogens.
If plants have had health issues when living in plastic, double potting (fitting a new, slightly smaller container within the external container) may be a way to continue to use those containers after infection.
When filling clean containers with a potting mix, especially the huge ones, gardeners often are tempted to use garden soil to cut the cost. Not a good idea. Garden soil carries insects and diseases that are often not problematic for in-ground growing, but will wreak havoc on container plantings. Buy plenty of good sterilized planting medium.
Covering the drainage holes with a bit of hardware cloth, stones or pottery shards will help to limit the amount of soil loss during the initial waterings, but is not absolutely necessary. Use your judgment on that one.
For all good plant development and growth, it is essential to provide consistent moisture and nutrients; in container gardening, it is even more so. Everything that goes into the container must come from an external source — you.
Container gardens provide an opportunity to extend color and form, as well as lengthen the growing season. Get ready to tackle the biggest stumbling block — limiting the plant material.
— Lis Friemoth is a horticulture diagnostician. Contact her at (262) 745-2904, P.O. Box 58, Springfield, WI 53176, visit online at www.thegardenhoe.com or e-mail her at gardenhoe@tds.net. Listen to Liz from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. every third Saturday on WISN AM1130 radio. |
