by Lis Friemoth
Do the (bean)pole dance
It’s all good: Pole beans to bush beans
Phaseolus coccineus, Phaseolus lunatus, Phaseolus vulgaris are some of the Latin names for those luscious fruits we fool ourselves into believing are vegetables. More commonly called green, wax, pole, and lima beans — these plants are staples in almost every food garden in North America.
Almost all of the plant parts are useful in way or another. The leaves of some are kind of edible, the unripened fruit is delicious prepared in many fashions, if left to mature, the fruit is often quite edible, and when dried, the fruits have an almost indefinite shelf life.
As with all legumes, they are a good consumable source of protein, are high in vitamin A and C, and provide beneficial bacteria that assist in fixing atmospheric nitrogen to the soils in which they grow.
The most common species for the garden is Phaseolus vulgaris, the bush and pole beans. For this part of the world, planting in mid-May (after the danger of frost has passed) and when soil is at least 50°F will ensure a good start. If planted too early, the seeds will quickly rot in the cool ground before they have completed germination.
For good plant growth and development, beans prefer a well-drained garden soil with a pH of around 6.0. For bush type beans, in loose soil, plant 1-1/2-inches deep in single rows spacing the seeds 2- to 4-inches apart, in rows 2- to 3-feet apart. If a continual crop is desired, sow seeds every couple of weeks until mid-summer for a staggered harvest. In heavy soils, plant 1-inch deep and use a loose mulch to cover — this will decrease problems in sprouting through the often crusty top layers.
For pole beans, plant the seeds the same depth as bush type, spacing them 6- to 10-inches apart in either rows a few feet apart, or plant 6 to 8 seeds (thin to 3 or so as plants emerge) in groupings about 4-feet apart. All pole beans will need at least a 7-foot high trellis, or a tent of 3 – 4 tall poles, with a rough texture to allow the tendrils to attach to the surface as they grow. A consistent water supply and plenty of sun will help to develop a good strong plant structure that will support bountiful fruit crops.
Balanced soil fertility is important, as with all food production, but any applications of nutrients must be well timed to avoid heavy leafing and weak fruiting. A soil test is always a good idea and will determine the available nutrients as well as give specific recommendations for any additional needs. In lieu of that – a general fertilizer relatively low in nitrogen can be worked into the soil prior to planting. Allow the plants to grow and develop blossoms before any additional fertilizer is added. At that point, if needed, side dressing (according to product label instructions) can be done. When using mechanical means for weed control, shallow tilling or hoeing is necessary as beans have a shallow root system and can easily be disturbed to the point of crop loss.
Mulch can be applied around the plants and in between rows to moderate moisture levels and to reduce weed pressures.
Harvesting varies according to the type. For snap beans, pick pods when they are just starting to show internal bean development and the pods have reached their intended mature color. For lima beans, harvest when beans are well developed and pods are still nice and green in color — if left on the plant too long the beans will be too hard and dry to use as edible fruits. After harvest, be sure to remove all plant debris from the garden to minimize disease and insect pressures for the upcoming season. And notate (mentally or on paper) when and where they were planted to ensure the recommended four year rotation cycle.
There are so many wonderful heirloom and hybrid varieties to try that it is difficult to name just a few good ones.
Bean varieties
- Pole (Phaseolus coccineus)
Ideal Market, early 1900’s, 68 days, 5” – 6” pods
Lazy Wife, German origin, 68 days, one of the first stringless, 5” pods
Painted Lady, introduced in the 1800’s, 68 days
Rattlesnake, 65 days, purple streaked green 7” pods
Scarlet Runner Bean 1800’s, 70 days, 12” pods
- Lima Bush (Phaseolus lunatus)
Fordhook, early 1900’s, 75 days, large beans 4 – 5 per pod
White Dixie Baby Butterbeans, 65 – 70 days, small plant size with heavy production, 4 -5 beans per pod, somewhat drought tolerant
- Bush type (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Blue Lake bush or pole, 55 or 70 days, stringless pods 5 /2” – 6” long
Contender, 55 days, 6” pods
Golden Wax, 45 – 60 days, 4 _” pods, buttery flavor
Kentucky Wonder bush, 60 days, 8” round pods
Romano bush or pole, 63 or 70 days, flat 5” – 6” pods
Royal Burgundy, 55 days, round purple, stringless pods that turn green when cooked
— Lis Friemoth is a horticulture diagnostician. Contact her at (262) 745-2904, P.O. Box 58, Springfield, WI 53176, visit online at www.thegardenhoe.com or e-mail her at gardenhoe@tds.net. Listen to Liz from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. every third Saturday on WISN AM1130 radio. |
